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ecobee 3 Install Help Thread

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Comments

  • EFTCEFTC CanadaMember

    Or you can just program it the way you want (start from scratch)

  • ChrisD24ChrisD24 Salisbury, NCMember

    I went in and reset it - then went to the old interface and created the group from there. First adding the ecobee3, then the Si.

    I had it tweaked a little from the default - I just haven't fully customized it yet. I'll go in through the old interface to make a full schedule though when I am ready. Right now, the weather is kind of mixed - so haven't needed heating and cooling as much to tweak it.

  • I just installed the e3 had the nest before so it was easy and is up and running . I want to also get the e3 to control the HRV, my HRV thermostat has 4 wires r g b w, I'll have to double check but on the hvac control board it only had 2 wires hooked from the hrv. How can I wire the HRV to the e3, I suspect I no longer need the 2 wires in the hvac control board and just need to figure out which 2 are going from the HRV stat to the actual HRV?

  • EFTCEFTC CanadaMember

    To Johnsnow:
    Your best bet is to contact Ecobee support for this question since they are the experts in this field.
    I am not sure if anyone here will know how to help you since not everyone are familiar with HRVs.

  • I did and they told me to look at the manual for my HRV which isn't much help

  • SteveSteve Seattle, WAAdministrator

    Can you post a link to your HRV's manual here? That will help us get a better idea of what type of connection your HRV is "looking for."

  • sforstensforsten OntarioMember

    I connected my HRV (Lifebreath) to my E3 successfully. The HRV unit used to be controlled with a separate control unit connected with three wires. It allowed me to change speed, timing cycles, humidity levels, etc. Connecting it to the E3 only allows me to switch it on and off with a set speed. This required me to take off the original three controller wires, apply a jumper between two connecters to set it at low speed when turned on and two wires from the E3 to turn it on and off.

    Depending on the make of your HRV unit this will be different so indeed check your manual. Just wanted to give this info to give you an idea of how I did it in my situation.

    Steve
  • EFTCEFTC CanadaMember

    This setup sounds familar. Is your HRV Fantech VHR 704R??

  • JohnsnowJohnsnow NaMember
    edited October 2014

    will post detailed info later

  • sidrock28sidrock28 Member
    edited November 2014

    Hi,
    I recieved my ecobee 3 yesterday and I followed the guide to install. My thermostat wiring only had 4 wire and they are Y, R, G and W. So I had to install PEK, I opened up the HVAC Power Control Board and I found two wires connected to Y, R, W and C and only one to G. I immediately called the support line and he asked me to remove one wire from each and insert it in to PEK and the other end back to the HVAC Power Control Board. Now I turned back ON my Furnace and AC breaker switch. The ecobee 3 started up and I finished my registration and signed up for a new account (even though I had a precious one). It worked fine for 30 minutes or so then it completely shut off, the screen is not turning ON. The house was built in 2012 by Mattamy and also it has VanEE Residential Air Exhange system a Humidifier HRV unit which has its own Honeywell Thermostat in the basement.

    Model #:EB-STATE3-01

    I am attaching a picture of my Thermostat wire seen in the wall with old Thermostat Back Plate. - Helpful for troubleshooting

    Attached a diagram of all the wires connecting to the HVAC Power Control Board. - Helpful for troubleshooting

    And A picture of wires going to the HVAC Power Control Board - Not very detailed.

    Dropbox link to the images https://dropbox.com/sh/sxfzd5ooexh0gnx/AAAZfxOVgN7jdxPeJBFUyorna?dl=0

    Thank you,
    Sid

  • Have the same Honeywell, make sure R is going to RC since your using PEK. G to G, W to w1(aux1) and y to y1

    I think your HRV is interlocked to your furnace, ie when the HRV runs it calls the fan blower. Which is why you have 2 wires going to w y c r. If you want to control the HRV you have to remove the interlock and just wire R to acc+ and G to acc-, please make sure your unit is 24vac. I just removed the interlock from the HRV control board as I didn't want to open the furnace again.

  • FORWINSTONSFORWINSTONS MICHIGANMember

    I went to upgrade my original SMART ecobee thermostat to ecobee3 and encountered a wiring system labeled D- (white wire); D+ (green wire); GND (blue wire); +12V (red wire). How should this be hooked to the ecobee3?

  • robdiablorobdiablo South Jordan, UTMember

    I am having difficulties getting the humidifier to turn on. My HVAC guy came back to check his install and his tests show that the wiring and humidifier are connected correctly. He tested the wires to make sure they get voltage and they do, the full 24 volts. However, the EcoBee3 never sends any voltage down when running the system or running the humidifier test from the unit. We first had it connected with 2 wires using ACC+/- then we hooked up the wire previously on ACC- directly to the C wire of the furnace. Still no humidifier activity.

    Last, he checked the solenoid and it activates when hooked up directly to the manual controls.

    The unit is an AprilAire 600m.

    I sent an email to Ecobee support to see if they have any ideas but I wanted to see if anyone else was experiencing any issues with Ecobee 3 firing up the humidifier.

  • kevmezkevmez The Great NorthwestMember

    I, also am having trouble controlling my humidifier with the E3. I'm only getting 14volts to the solenoid valve. I haven't contacted Ecobee yet. Hoping somebody here will have a solution.

  • mustang_52mustang_52 United StatesMember

    robdiablo said:
    I am having difficulties getting the humidifier to turn on. My HVAC guy came back to check his install and his tests show that the wiring and humidifier are connected correctly. He tested the wires to make sure they get voltage and they do, the full 24 volts. However, the EcoBee3 never sends any voltage down when running the system or running the humidifier test from the unit. We first had it connected with 2 wires using ACC+/- then we hooked up the wire previously on ACC- directly to the C wire of the furnace. Still no humidifier activity.

    Last, he checked the solenoid and it activates when hooked up directly to the manual controls.

    The unit is an AprilAire 600m.

    I sent an email to Ecobee support to see if they have any ideas but I wanted to see if anyone else was experiencing any issues with Ecobee 3 firing up the humidifier.

    The way mine is hooked up is one wire to the common on the furnace and one wire to the acc+ on the ecobee. I beleibe that how yur supposed to hook it up when using one wire to the thermostat.

  • murmur11murmur11 VirginiaMember
    edited November 2014

    Hi, I received ecobee3 yesterday and followed the instructions, but I must have missed something or done something wrong. Here is what I have and what I have done so far:

    Old thermostat: R, G, Y, W (and there is no spare wire for C)

    Control board: Wires are connected to R, G, C, W terminals but no wire is connected to Y terminal. Instead, two yellow wires are hooked up together with wire nut. I think one end is coming from outdoor unit and the other is going back to thermostat (Y wire).

    PEK: I disconnected wires from the control board and connected R, C, G, W wires from PEX to control board. I had no idea what to do with the yellow wires. So I connected R, G, W wires to "thermostat side" of PEK.

    When I plugged ecobee3 to terminal board, ecobee3 was turned on but I was stuck at "Terminal Connections Detected" display. It indicates that only Rc and Rh are detected. It also says touch "Continue" to manually configure the connections but "Continue" was grayed out (unresponsive) so I could not proceed.

    It would be appreciated if anyone could help me out.

    Thank you!

  • you need to take to make sure one of the 2 y wires is going back to the thermostat, mmaybe you used the one going to the outside unit?

    R needs to go to Rh i believe if using the PEK (double check the manual)

  • murmur11murmur11 VirginiaMember
    edited November 2014

    Thank you. I spoke with Ecobee and my Ecobee3 is finally up and running. I removed wire nut and connect one Y wire from outdoor unit to equipment side of PEK with wire nut and another Y wire to thermostat side of PEK. Ecobee said Y wire needs to be connected to PEK since PEK is to multiplex Y and G wires so it can be used as C wire, and manual says R needs to be connected to Rc. All Rc, G, Y and W wires were detected and everything went smoothly after that.

    Temperature reading appears to be 2 degrees F higher than what I used to see from old honeywell thermostat and I had to drop 2 degrees F from "temperature correction." I also raised heating set point by 1 degree because my wife and daughter complained. Does anyone have the same issue?

  • Give it a couple of days to adjust to your house, I found after a few days the temp readings matched my old honeywell.

    mtherr
  • Just received a new ecobee3, replacing a Nest . We have a boiler with steam heat. I only have wires R and W plugged into the Nest. When i removed the Nest there were 2 wires in the wall, not labeled, no colors. I'm wondering if one of these will be useful as a C wire.

    Using a volt meter between the 2 wires in the wall, 24V , but using the volt meter between any of the new wires and the R is just half of that.

    Anyone have any ideas?

    Thanks!

  • EFTCEFTC CanadaMember

    To Elliott,

    Go back and confirm where the new wires are connected to. If you don't know where they are connected to, it might be best to 1) Stop; 2) put electrical tape to cover the wire; 3) Find out where they are wired to the boiler.

    But to answer your Q, you might be able to use the new wires as a C wire.

  • MolsonbeersMolsonbeers OshawaMember

    I recently received my Ecobee3 and I'm in the process of trying to install it but man this is confusing. I have a 4 wire setup at the thermostat and on the furnace control board I have 5 screws to attach the wires to. In the summer I had a tech come and install AC and a humidifier and I also have an HRV system with a separate control panel upstairs (Vaneee). The installer used my "C" wire screw to power the humidifier with a separate control box in the basement. I called Ecobee support and he said its fine, just use the PEK and link it to the "C" screw and leave everything else connected. It means my Ecobee3 wont be able to control the humidifier but I'm ok with that I just want to be sure this sounds right.

  • SteveSteve Seattle, WAAdministrator
    edited November 2014

    @Molsonbeers: Yes. That sounds right.

    If you only have four wires at the wall for your thermostat (which is a bummer, man), then you'll have to use all four wires to run back to the PEK near your furnace, and then connect the 5 wires from the PEK to the matching terminals on your furnace board (including the C terminal for that PEK wire).

    Multiple items can use that same "C" (or COMMON) terminal. It's basically the "other side of the connection" for items that are drawing 24V power from your furnace (usually via the R terminal).

    The ecobee3 could control your humidifier directly if you had another wire available. It would fire 24V over its ACC + terminal, and then share the C terminal on the furnace, like I did here:

    http://www.stevejenkins.com/blog/2014/11/upgrade-install-guide-ecobee-original-smart-thermostat-ecobee3/

    Welcome to the Hive! :)

  • SteveSteve Seattle, WAAdministrator

    FORWINSTONS said:
    I went to upgrade my original SMART ecobee thermostat to ecobee3 and encountered a wiring system labeled D- (white wire); D+ (green wire); GND (blue wire); +12V (red wire). How should this be hooked to the ecobee3?

    @FORWINSTONS: I wrote this guide just for guys in your situation. :) Enjoy!

    http://www.stevejenkins.com/blog/2014/11/upgrade-install-guide-ecobee-original-smart-thermostat-ecobee3/

  • MolsonbeersMolsonbeers OshawaMember
    edited November 2014

    Thanks Steve, that's great. One other thing I'm noticing is that my green thermostat wire does not connect to the furnace control board, it looks like its connected with a marrette to the green wire leading to the HRV system. Is the HRV controlling this? do I still connect the PEK green wire to the green control port on the furnace board or do I include it in the marrette connector with the other 2 green wires? I feel like I'm defusing a bomb LOL.

    found a picture online that looks like my setup. Wires going down go to the thermostat and wires going left go to the HRV. You can see the Greens are connected but do not connect to the furnace control board. Does the PEK connect to the Green terminal on the furnace board or to the other 2 green wires in the orange marrette connector?

  • SteveSteve Seattle, WAAdministrator

    Molsonbeers said:
    I feel like I'm defusing a bomb LOL

    CUT THE RED WIRE! NO, THE BLUE! :)

    The G terminal controls the furnace's fan. The HRV can energize that wire to kick on the furnace fan when it wants to humidify. Anything that wants to trigger the furnace fan (thermostat, HRV, or even a timer for just circulating air in your house) can do so by energizing that terminal, so it's fine to have multiple things connected there.

    So to answer your question, it really doesn't matter whether you connect the G wire from the ecobee3 directly to the G terminal or if you just include it inside the wire nut (marrette). Either way, that wire from the ecobee3 can energize the G terminal and kick on the fan.

  • SteveSteve Seattle, WAAdministrator

    Wait... I wrote my answer before seeing your image link (and I edited your post to embed the image, btw).

    I don't see where the green wire from the wire nut connects to the G terminal. I assume one end of that green wire is connected to the HRV (probably the one that goes out to the left). Where is the other one going?

  • MolsonbeersMolsonbeers OshawaMember
    edited November 2014

    The green wire exiting to the left connects to the HRV and the green wire that exits out the bottom goes to the thermostat upstairs.

    I looked up my HRV system and it looks like page 12 section 4 talks about the green wire as part of an "Alternate Furnace Interlock Wiring" setup.
    http://www.vanee.ca/DATA/DOCUMENT/17_en~v~installation-manuel-60h-series.pdf
    they don't connect to the furnace at all.

  • SteveSteve Seattle, WAAdministrator
    edited November 2014

    Ok - then I'm pretty sure you want to connect the G wire from the ecobee3 directly to the G terminal on your furnace terminal, and let the HRV do its own thing. Does the black wire currently connected to the terminal block go to the thermostat wall unit location now?

  • SteveSteve Seattle, WAAdministrator

    @molsonbeers: Also, see this comment above from @sforsten:

    http://www.smarthomehub.net/forums/discussion/comment/477/#Comment_477

    It sounds like he was able to get his HRV working with his ecobee, rather than just let it run wild. :)

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